The reason the style came about is almost certainly more through necessity than desire, which also explains why steam beer has historically been seen as somewhat agricultural, a rough drop for the blue collar boys after they'd worked up a thirst. Mid-19th century gold rush Californians wanted to brew beer but didn't have access to the ice or cold water they needed to brew at classic lager brewing temperatures (55 to 32 °F) so they did what all right-minded people would do and carried on regardless by brewing their beer at higher temperatures anyway. What's not to like about that bit of pragmatism?
Oddly, nobody knows for sure what the word 'steam' refers to, not even the Anchor Brewing Co that trademarked the name 'Steam Beer' in 1981. The Anchor company is interesting in its own right because it is widely credited with spawning the craft beer industry in America, having been bought by former dairy farms magnate and subsequent brewing guru Fritz Maytag in 1965, though he sold it last year to Keith Greggor and Tony Foglio, the guys behind Skyy Vodka.
It's worth noting of course that no recipes or even precise brewing method specifications exist for the original 18th century steam beer so Anchor's take on it, Anchor Steam Beer, is very much a modern one.
To contrast with this well established classic, we have fledgling Edinburgh brewer Knops Beer Company's version, somewhat confusingly entitled California Common, the 'official' name for the style, since Anchor have exclusive rights on the term steam beer. A really interesting company, Knops has only been on the go for a few years and only makes a couple of beers but both with a strong historic flavour to them. California Common is cuckoo-brewed at Traditional Scottish Ales in Stirling, or it was last time I checked.
TASTING NOTES AFTER A FASHION:
Anchor Steam, Anchor Brewing Co, california common, 4.8% abv, realale.com (gifted)
Pretty little amber beer in the glass with a lively if short-lived head. Florally notes on the nose with a bit of sweetness giving way to pronounced hops. In the mouth there's more to it than what you'd expect from a hybrid of a lager and a darker ale, but a lot of the nuances are very subtle. Malt and a nutty sweetness and some more floral notes are quickly swamped by a powerful, crisp hoppy bitterness. Finish is more of the same but lacks substance and depth for my taste although the subtly perfumed aftertaste it leaves behind is really rather delicate and special. For me, however, the idea and history behind the style is more intriguing than the ale itself, or this one at any rate.
Score: 2.5 / 5
California Common, Knops Beer Co, california common, 4.8% abv, Peckhams, £1.89.
Disconcertingly similar in the glass to Anchor's version, the two are virtually identical to the eye in terms of colour and head density and length - though an entirely different kettle of fish once you get closer. Gloriously malty and toasty on the nose with maybe a touch of dried fruit and perhaps a little spice on the nose, it's an explosion in the mouth and on the tongue. Far heavier and denser than Anchor Steam, it's much nearer the ale end of the spectrum than the lager end, though it retains a lagery crispness and dryness. More malty sweetness with big blasts of alcohol-soaked dried raisins, like my granny used to make at Christmas. But with the sweetness and fruitiness comes a steady layer of hops that balances the ale just perfectly, leading into a nice, full finish that leaves the loveliest glow in the mouth. Cracking drop.
Score: 4/5
http://www.anchorbrewing.com/
http://www.knopsbeer.co.uk/
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